SERVES: MAKES A GENEROUS POUND OF GNOCCHI, ENOUGH TO SERVE 4 TO 6 PEOPLE

PREP TIME: ABOUT 1 HOUR 15 MINUTES

COOK TIME: ABOUT 5 MINUTES

It is another dish that my father used to make, and it also happens to be a favorite of my sister, Lisa. I love it, too. What’s not to love? A pasta made out of potato: Starch heaven, baby.

Contrary to popular belief, gnocchi are not that difficult to make: once you’ve done it, and seen how they come out so you can adjust, you’ll be a pro in no time at all.

The main thing is to not overwork the dough, which will cause the gnocchi to become leaden and gummy.

I offer my Dad’s mushroom sauce to go with gnocchi, but you don’t have to go to the trouble of making a sauce; gnocchi are so soft and delicious themselves that you can simply toss them with a simple tomato sauce, or with melted butter and minced herbs.

Ingredients:

• 3 large Idaho potatoes (about 2½ pounds total)
• 2 large egg yolks, beaten
• 1 to 2 cups all-purpose our (you may not need it all), plus more for dusting your work surface
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg, optional

Directions:

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat to 400°F.
2. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, arrange on a rimmed baking tray, and bake, turning every 15 minutes or so to ensure even cooking, until a sharp, thin-bladed knife, such as a paring knife, slides easily into the center of a potato, 45 to 60 minutes.
3. Remove the potatoes from the oven, use tongs to transfer them to the cutting board, and use the knife to make slashes lengthwise across the potatoes. As soon as they are cool enough to handle, press on the ends of the potatoes with your hands to force out the steam. (In order to make less gummy gnocchi, the potatoes need to be as dry as possible.)
4. Remove the potatoes from the oven, use tongs to transfer them to the cutting board, and use the knife to make slashes lengthwise across the potatoes. As soon as they are cool enough to handle, press on the ends of the potatoes with your hands to force out the steam. (In order to make less gummy gnocchi, the potatoes need to be as dry as possible.)
5. While the potatoes are still quite warm, scoop out the potato flesh and rice them in a ricer or transfer to a bowl and mash with a potato masher. Measure out 3 (loosely packed) cups.
6. Lightly flour a work surface and transfer the 3 cups of potato to the surface. Add 1/2 cup flour, gently knead and form into a mound. Make a well in the center and add about 3/4 of the egg to the well. Use a fork to work the egg into the mixture. When almost incorporated (the mixture will begin crumbling), sprinkle another 1/4 cup our over the mixture and work it in with the fork, then gently knead together. If the mixture seems too dry, add more of the yolk. Continue just until the mixture comes together in a slightly shiny and fragile dough—adding more flour and egg yolk, as necessary.
7. Lightly press the dough together into a ball and set it aside. Scrape any stuck-on dough from your work surface, then dust lightly with flour.
8. Working on the freshly floured surface, fold and knead the dough just enough for it to hold together. If the dough is sticky, add a little more flour, but as little as possible; the less flour you add and the less you work the dough, the lighter and more tender the gnocchi will be.
9. Lightly flour a rimmed baking sheet. Cut the dough into four equal pieces. Working with 1 portion of dough, roll it into a long rope, about 1/2 inch in diameter. With the bench scraper, cut 1-inch pieces of dough from the rope and place on the oured sheet. These are your gnocchi. The gnocchi may be frozen on the baking sheet, then transferred to a freezer bag and frozen for up to 1 month. There is no need to defrost the gnocchi before cooking them.
10. To cook gnocchi, bring a pot of salted water to a gentle boil over high heat. Add the gnocchi. They are done after they bob to the surface then cook for 1 additional minute, about 2 minutes total for fresh gnocchi, 3 to 4 for frozen. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the gnocchi either to mixing bowls to gently toss with other ingredients (see headnote), to pans full of sauce (as in Mushroom Sauce for Gnocchi, page 000), or directly to serving dishes.